Sewing a Chanel Style Jacket

SEWING CHANEL

In timely style with the Chanel exhibition currently showing at the Victoria and Albert museum in London, I decided to showcase my students work and my own ‘Chanel style’ jackets – both completed and works in progress.

Three of my students made it to the exhibition and loved it.  If you haven’t yet been – there is still time – its on until February 2024 – the exhibition is sold out however a membership fee allows access anytime click here to book.

Here’s what my students are making in the style of Chanel.

Blue / navy wool jacket – by eliminating the centre back seamline it meant that there was no break in the check. (The CB line was straight anyhow).  It took a while to pattern match but look how the horizonal stripes match at the arms, waist and hips! The fabric was from Linton Tweeds and it was lined in silk, quilted and weighted with a chain.  The braid was made from unravelling the boucle yarn in the cloth and stitching it between two black ribbons. There is a beautiful lift in the sleeve head.  This took 3 toiles and over 70 hours to complete, both time in class and time at home, but the result is a perfect fit!

The green base with red and blue slubs is another Linton Tweed fabric.  This garment is being made by Stephanie and after approving the toile body and refitting the sleeve twice with adjustments the real cloth is being cut.  Lots of preparation: thread tracing, fusing, and making tailored shoulder pads by hand.

After making a Chanel inspired dress at a previous class, Jane is also working on a Chanel inspired jacket.  With the toile now approved, its on to the fabric preparation.

Preparation and process is slow and meticulous when venturing on a Chanel style jacket.  The fabric is expensive and you do not wish to cut into it until fully ready.  It is also important to continue to fit the real fabric garment along the way.