Sewing a Man’s Custom Coat: Part One

A SEWING JOURNEY WITH LESLEY AND DAVE

This blog post comes in two parts. Mainly because its such an important sewing topic and also because there are a lot of photographs throughout the process. Part 1 blog is about the toile and Part 2 will showcase the coat being made in the final fabric.

Sewing is an art of precision, engineering, creativity, and problem-solving, and when it comes to crafting a tailored garment, no step is as crucial as making a toile. For those unfamiliar, a toile is a test garment, usually made from inexpensive fabric, that allows the maker to check fit and design before cutting into the final, expensive material. This blog post explores why making a toile is a must when creating a custom man’s coat, as seen through the experience of my talented student, Lesley, who made a stylish and perfectly fitted coat for her husband, Dave.

Why a Toile is a Game Changer in Garment Construction

Toiles are a game changer. For any complex garment like a coat, fit and design can make or break the final look. A toile allows you to:

Check the Fit: With a toile, you can make adjustments before committing to expensive fabric. Small changes to the fit—like sleeve length, shoulder width, or waist adjustments—are far easier to make on a mock-up than on a final garment.
Perfect the Design: A toile helps visualize the intended style. It’s easy to see how design details like pocket placement, collar style, or sleeve structure work in real life.
Avoid Expensive Mistakes: For garments made from luxurious or costly fabrics, the risk of making costly mistakes is high. A toile offers a safety net to get everything right first.

LESLEY AND DAVE: A STYLISH COLLABORATION

Lesley’s sewing journey began with a vision for a custom coat for her husband, Dave. He has a keen sense of style, and as we all know, a coat is more than just a jacket—it’s an essential part of a wardrobe that can make or break an outfit.

Understanding Dave’s Style: Dave’s fashion sense is one of the things that made this project exciting. His appreciation for well-tailored, stylish garments meant that Lesley needed to get the details just right. Lesley focused on design elements like the coat’s silhouette, collar style, and button placement to create something that was both functional and stylish. Lesley considered not only the outside fabric, but also the inside of the coat. I will write about this more in part 2 of this blog.
The Importance of Fit: Dave’s body shape is unique, which means that patterns often need to be adjusted. The toile would allow Lesley to test out fit and make sure that the coat would be comfortable, flattering, and functional for daily wear.

The Toile Process: From Mock-Up to Masterpiece

Lesley’s toile-making process was a learning experience for both her and Dave, but it paid off in the end with a coat that truly suited him. Here’s a breakdown of the steps involved in creating the toile:

Choosing the Right Fabric: For the toile, Lesley chose a simple, inexpensive fabric that could mimic the final material she intended to use for the coat. This allowed her to get a real sense of how the coat might behave once it was made with the final fabric. Rather than use calico, I recommended a brushed cotton curtain lining as this represented the weight of the actual cloth better.
Constructing the Toile: Once the toile was constructed, Lesley fit it on Dave to identify any areas that needed attention. It became clear that the sleeves were slightly too wide and the back required minor adjustments. Overall it was a fantastic toile!
Making Adjustments: With Dave’s feedback Lesley could make the necessary adjustments. For the second toile, Lesley added her tailor made shoulder pads, and the collar structure. Sleeve, hem and back vent length were all discussed and approved. It was then back to the paper patterns and a notepad to make the final adjustments before cutting the actual wool cloth.
Fitting Sessions with Dave: The toile fitting sessions were key to the process. Dave’s feedback was invaluable because he understood how the coat should feel and fit for his lifestyle. A tailor-made garment, especially for a man with such a distinct style, requires attention to how the wearer will use the garment. It was very important that Dave moved in the coat to ensure that it was comfortable and it felt good. He certainly looks like he is enjoying the trying on sessions!

HAS LESLEY INSPIRED YOU TO MAKE A TOILE FIRST?

Lesley’s experience with creating Dave’s coat is a testament to the importance of toiles in the garment-making process. In total, Lesley made 2 toiles for Dave’s coat. The photograph captions note the first and second toile. The improvements on the second toile are evident in the fit and even how Dave is enjoying trying the coat on!

If you’re planning a big project like a tailored coat, jacket, or dress, don’t skip the toile. It’s a critical step that will save you time, money, and potential frustration. Lesley’s journey is proof that a toile isn’t just a test run; it’s a chance to bring your design vision to life and make it truly personal. Sewing for a loved one can be nerve wracking! You really want them to love it, appreciate it and of course wear it. Lesley and Dave worked together in the design and fitting stages, and this is a great example of how much a success this was.

Colour and Cloth teach all levels of Sewing Courses and Workshops so no matter what level you are at, there is no better time to start than now. How to sew styles like Lesley, starts with learning how to thread your machine and then you are on your new creative journey.